Archive for March, 2012

Placemat Clutch



placemat (dollar store for cheap ones!!)
Fabric for lining (I just cut a piece that was big enough to fold in the edges)
felt scrap
Snap (and tool to put snap in… you can buy them together in a pack at JoAnn’s or Walmart)
Something cool to adorn/cover the snap!

TIME: This is a one hour/ one nap project

1. Lay the placemat on the fabric and cut. I made the ends longer, because my mom wanted to have the fabric hang over the edge when after I hemmed it.

2. Fold in the long side edges 1x and pin.

3. At the top and bottom edges, fold down the hem once, and then fold in the corners before folding the edge over one more time (encased hem) so that the corners don’t peek out.

( This is what it will look like after folding the edges over again. see how we left it longer on the end so it peeks out from the edge??? I love that detail.)

4. Flip the pinned fabric over so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing the “wrong” side of the placemat (even though there really isn’t a wrong side).

5. Take it to your sewing machine and stitch the lining fabric to the placemat.
6. Fold over one side of the placemat and sew down the edges. Almost done!!!

7.  cut out a circle or square from the felt and attach a snap (see instructions on the package)
8. Sew the circle on to the inside of the flap that opens. (see below)

9. fold the opening shut and determine where the other part of the snap should go and mark it. Then attach the snap.

10. attach something to the front to make it look pretty!! I used a felt feather cluster that I normally put on my headbands!! ( I used lots of hot glue to attach it)

hine.  I quickly bookmarked her fabulous tutorial and picked up my supplies.

Stenciled bag supplies

How to Make Monogram Stenciled Canvas Bag


Canvas tote bag  (I chose white, but you could use the natural as well)

Soft Fabric Paint (I used black, but again, you could use any color)

Large Paper Doily (I used the 12″ size)

Adhesive Spray

sponge brush for paint (not pictured)


  • Spray one side of doily with spray adhesive (trust me, you don’t want to skip this step) then place doily on one corner of bag
  • Use fabric paint to paint over holes in doily
  • Carefully remove doily before paint dries
  • Monogram

stencil bag with doily
There are a few different way’s you can monogram your bag

  1. I used my Silhouette and Freezer paper to cut a “C” stencil,  ironed the freezer paper stencil onto the bag, and painted.
  2. you can draw/trace a letter on, and paint by hand, like Ashley did
  3. Don’t have a die cut machine? to nervous to paint by hand?…..instructions for making a stencil with freezer paper here.

Stencil Monogram

So there you go~

Stenciled Canvas bag

Super easy and Super cute huh?!  Again, I want to thank Ashley for this wonderful idea…..just think of what all you can do with these cute bags!

You will need a large piece of paper (I used two pieces of A4 paper stuck together) and a ruler.
I have designed this tutorial so you can make any sized purse you like. All you need to do is choose the width, height and depth of the purse you like. For my purse, I chose a width of 23cm, a height of 17cm and a depth of 10cm – big enough to fit my keys, wallet, phone and sunglasses.


Your completed pattern piece will look like this:

I’ll walk you through the steps:

1.    At the top of the paper mark out the width of the purse. Starting at the points you have marked, draw                     two vertical lines. These lines run down the page and will be the width of you completed purse.

2.    Next, divide the depth you have decided by 2. For me this was 5cm (half the depth of 10cm). Make two                 more vertical lines at this distance (for me, 5cm) from the outside of the lines you created in step 1.


3.    Line up your ruler with the top edge of the paper on one of the inner lines. Angle the ruler so it crosses                 the outer line at the height you have chosen for your purse. Draw in this line and then repeat on the                         other side.

4.    Draw a line that joins the lower ends of the lines you have made in step 3.


5.    Draw a line parallel to the line you have made in step 4. This line needs to be the width of the purse. The                 distance between the two lines should be half the depth of the purse.

6.     I have marked in the final shape of your purse pattern. You are not quite finished yet though – you need                to add some seam allowances.


7.     Mark in the seam allowance you like to work with. For me this is 1cm. There is only one little bit to watch.             Have a look in the picture. On the points where you have made the two triangles make sure your seam                     allowance runs parallel to the lines you created in steps 1 and 2. Cut out your pattern piece and you are                 ready to start cutting and sewing the purse!

Making the Purse……

What you’ll need:

  • 2 pieces of fabric – an outer fabric and a lining
  • a zipper at least 10cm longer than the width of your finished purse
  • iron on interfacing (This is not essential but will give a nice structure to your purse. I used two home dec weight fabrics and got away without using it. I would have but didn’t have any on hand. If you are using quilting weight fabric you will get a much better finish if you use it.
  • the paper pattern you have just made.

The first steps to making this purse are exactly the same as a regular zippered purse. Have a look here at our zippered purse with pockets tutorial for more details and pictures. If you have not made a zippered purse before, I would suggest you read through the whole tutorial before you start. I am probably saying something really obvious but there are no pockets in the purse we are making today!!

Using your pattern piece cut 2 from your outer fabric, your lining fabric and your iron on interfacing.
Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining fabric.

Grab your zipper. Lay out one outer fabric, right side up and put the zip facing down with the zipper pull to the left on top. Place the lining fabric right side down on top. The zipper will hang out on either side of your fabric. Line up the zipper edge with the raw edges of the outer and lining and pin liberally. Here is an image from our previous tutorial to help you along. (Obviously your fabric pieces with be funny shaped triangles, but I am sure you get the idea!)


Sew these pieces together. Aim to sew as close as you can to the zipper feet – I use a seam allowance of 1cm.
Flip both these pieces of fabric back so you can see their right  sides and the zipper:

Attach the other lining and outer piece to the other side in a similar way. Outer right side up, zipper right side down with the pull to the right, lining piece with pockets right side down.
Open up the zipper so the pull is about half way down the length of the zip.
Lay out your project so the linings are right sides together and the outers right sides together. You will have something that looks like this:

Pin around the edges well. Try and push the teeth of the zipper so they face the lining. This seems to give the zipper a better look when you have finished the project.
It’s now time to sew the purse together. Using your chosen seam allowance follow the diagram below:

You can see that you start and finish sewing at the base of the lining. Make sure you leave a gap to turn through the purse at the end. You sew up and over the zipper with one continuous line of sewing. If you go slowly  you won’t have to worry about breaking a needle. You will need to change directions slightly at the zipper – just before you reach the zipper pivot with the needle down to do this.

Now, let’s move on to creating the flat bottom. You will need to complete the next steps 4 times – twice for the lining and twice for the outer.
At one of the square cut corners, separate the layers of the bag. Match up the side seam and bottom seam. Pin them so they are flat and then stitch using your regular seam allowance.

Once you have done this for all four corners you are pretty much done! Using the hole you left in the base of the lining turn the purse through, so the right sides are now visible. Hand slip the hole in the lining and then tuck the lining into the purse outer.

You are done – your first square cornered, flat bottomed, zippered purse!! Make lots. Make them in different sizes now you know how!


Before you sew together the front and back pieces of the top flap, add your lace/doily piece. Mine was an oval design that I cut in half. I just sewed it on following the scalloped hem.

Sew your front and back of the top flap pieces together, leaving the top side open for turning. Clip the corners, turn right side out, and press.
Fold the top edges to the inside and press.

Make sure to add your inside snap piece as well.

Sew the top flap to the top, back section of the clutch, just inside the edge. The top should overlap about 1″ but check your placement and make sure the flap snaps without pulling. If you need to, adjust the placement of the top piece before sewing.
Tack the inside top sections together to create a fold on each side.

Now if you want, add some flowers to one side in coordinating colors!

I am wearing a lot of these turquoise colors right now, so I think this will be a great clutch to carry – neutral but with a pop of color!

I think it has such a fun vintage feel . . .

And yes. My wardrobe almost entirely consists of cardigans, tops and jeans. Just in case you were wondering.


Update: I had listed the fabric amounts incorrectly when I posted this – I had said you needed a fat quarter each for the outside and the inside fabrics. You will need 1/3 yard of each. So sorry about the error!!**

• 1/3 yard for outside fabric
• 1/3 yard for inside lining
(I used Joel Dewberry, Heirloom by Free Spirit, Ornate Floral in Amber & Tile Flourish in Amber)
• 1/4 yard of fusible heavyweight Pellon interfacing (Peltex 71F – Ultra Firm Stabilizer)
• 1/2 yard of fusible interfacing (950F – fusible nonwoven interfacing)
• 1 magnetic snap closure
• 1 vintage beaded item (mine was a clip earring with the closure cut off)

Begin by cutting out your outside pieces. You’ll need 2 pieces 11″ x 7″, 1 piece 11″ x 8″ and one piece 3″ x 25″.
When you cut out the pieces, pay attention to the placement of the 11″ x 8″ piece that will be the front flap. Center the piece on a section of fabric that has a feature you want to highlight, like a large flower, bird, whatever.
Make sure that there is another section of the fabric with this same design that will be left after you cut out the other pieces.

Cut out the section of the fabric that you want to use for the fabric applique on the front flap. It should match the design on the front rectangle piece.

Lay the applique piece over the fabric rectangle so that it covers the piece below it.
Sew the applique on, about 1/4″ inside the edge, following the lines of your design.

This will give you a subtle applique look with frayed edges.

Cut out your Ultra Firm Stabilizer – 2 pieces 10″ x 6″ and 1 piece 10″ x 7″. Cut out fusible interfacing for the two long, thin rectangles and all lining pieces.
Iron your interfacings onto the outside fabric pieces.

Sew the long rectangle piece to one of the 11″ x 7″ rectangle pieces along the two short sides and the bottom. Use a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Clip the corners up to the seam but not through it so they will lay nicely.

Sew the other 11″ x 7″ rectangle to the other side of the 3″ piece.

Turn the rectangle right side out and press.
Mark the placement of the large side of the magnetic snap. You should have a snap piece and a metal piece with three holes. Use the metal piece as your guide.
Place the piece in the center of the front rectangle, 1 1/2″ up from the bottom seam. Draw marking lines inside the holes.

Cut small slits in the fabric and interfacing where you have marked it. (A sharp exacto knife works great for this.)
Place the two prongs of the snap through the slits. On the back side (the interfacing side) slip the metal piece over the prongs and fold them to the outside.
Here’s what it looks like on the inside.

Now cut out your lining pieces. You’ll need 2 pieces 11″ x 7″, 1 piece 11″ x 8″ and one piece 3″ x 25″.
You will also need a piece of your outside fabric 9″ x  8″ for the pocket.
Iron your fusible interfacing pieces to all the lining pieces.

Fold your pocket piece in half, right sides together, to make a 4 1/2″ x 8″ rectangle. Sew the three open sides together, leaving a small opening at the bottom for turning.
Clip the corners.

Turn right side out and press.
Center the pocket on one of the 11″ x 7″ lining pieces, 1 1/2″ from the top edge.
Sew the pocket to the lining piece on the two short sides and the bottom, right next to the edge. Sew a seam down the pocket to divide it.
Mine is 2 1/2″ from the left side.

Sew your lining pieces to the 3″ x 25″ piece like you did with the outside pieces – but leave a section on the bottom open for turning.

Place the outside section inside the lining pieces, matching up the top edges and seams. Make sure that the pocket lining piece is matched up with the back piece of the bag, not the piece with the snap.
Sew around the top edge with a 1/2″ seam.

Turn the bag right side out. Press all those wrinkles out.
Sew up the opening in the lining by hand and tuck the lining into the outside of the bag.

Top stitch around the top edge of the bag, 1/4″ from the edge. This might be tricky since the interfacing is so stiff. But you’re tough. You can handle it.

Now we’re going to add the other side of the snap to the front flap lining piece. Mark the placement for the snap piece, in the center of the lining piece, 1 1/2″ up from the bottom of the piece.
On the back of the lining piece, iron a small square of the heavy-duty stabilizer. This will reinforce the snap so it doesn’t pull out over time.

Add the snap to the lining piece by marking, then cutting slits like you did for the other piece.

Place the two front flap pieces, right sides together. Sew the two side seams and the bottom seam with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Clip the bottom corners.

Turn the piece right side out and press. Clip a little out of the seams at the top open section. Tuck the open ends in and press them down.

Pin the flap to the back side of the clutch, so that the wrong side of the front flap is facing the right side of the back of the clutch. The front flap should overlap the back piece by 1″.
Sew the front flap piece to the back of the clutch, 1/4″ from the folded edge of the front flap.
(Again, this will be a little unwieldy. A heavy duty needle will help.)

Pinch together the top of the clutch, with middle section folded to the inside, like the picture below.
Tack this tucked section in place by hand with a few stitches through the fold.

Now if all is right with the world, your front flap should fold over and snap closed!

If you want, add a little fun decorative piece at the bottom of the front flap. You could use a button, pin, anything really that matches your style and fabric. This will look like the outside of the snap, but it’s just for decoration.
I used one of my Grandma’s clip on earrings. I cut off the clip portion with wire cutters and glued it to the front of the flap, over the snap.

And that finishes it up!!
Such a cute clutch – with plenty of room for your wallet, phone, and keys – and we even have a pocket for lip gloss!

I just love the fabric of the clutch!! So perfect for brightening up an outfit.
Even if your shirt is all wrinkled. Oh. That’s just me.


Here’s what you’ll need to make this Version:

All the fabric/interfacing/notions requirements for the Original Clutch – along with:
1/4″ yard of three fabrics for ruffles – if you want three different shades of ruffles.
Decorative button or pin

Follow the instructions for the original clutch to make the base section of your clutch.

Before you iron on the heavy duty stabilizer onto your front piece, you are going to create all your ruffles.

Cut from each fabric 2 – 5″ x 16″ pieces. Fold each piece in half – long ways – and sew a gathering stitch down the raw edges.

Mark the center of your front piece. I folded mine in half and used my finger to press a crease into the fabric.
Place the raw edges of your lightest color ruffle 1/4″ to the left of the center crease.
Sew in place with a 1/4″ seam allowance.


Fold over the first ruffle and pin the second ruffle 5/8″ from the seam. Sew your next lightest ruffle to the left of this ruffle.

ew on the last ruffle to the left of the second one, again 5/8″ from the seam of the second ruffle.


Sew the three ruffles to the right of the crease just like you did the first set.

Awww. Cute ruffles. But a little wily.
Baste down the top and bottom of the ruffles with a 1/4″ seam.

From the same fabric as the outside of your clutch, cut a rectangle 4″ x 8″. Cut a piece of fusible interfacing 1 1/2″ x 8″. Iron the interfacing down the center of the rectangle.
Fold the two sides to the back over the interfacing and press.

Place the rectangle over the ruffles at the center of the front piece. Sew the piece on with a straight stitch just inside the fold on each side.

Place your front and lining pieces right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open for turning.
Make sure you add your inside snap piece to the lining.
Turn right side out and press. Press the seam allowances at the top under as well.

Sew the front flap piece to the back top of the clutch. Remember to check your placement by snapping the pieces together first. It should overlap onto the back piece about 1″.

Fold in the top center sections on each side and tack in place to make the little top side pleats.

Add a decorative piece to the front – and you’re all done!

I love the linen look to the fabric on the clutch – it’s similar to muslin but a nice medium weight. And I think it is a great contrast with the softness of the ruffles.


Let’s start from the materials you will need: zipper size equal to the width of your clutch, thread, fabric for lining, leather and fabric for the clutch. I used my hand painted fabricexperiment. Other thing is to mention before we start that all seams allowances in this tutorial are about 1 to 1.5 cm.

hand painted fabric bag tutorial

Figure out what size clutch do you want, as I love oversized bags I decided that I will be only satisfied with an oversized clutch, so my clutch size is 40×48 cm in unfolded version.

Cut 2 details from each fabric and leather. Leather pieces are 40x 25 cm, body’s fabric 40 x 22 cm and lining 40x 50 cm adding 1 cm on each side for seams. Basically keep the width of each piece the same, like in my variation it is 40 cm.

hand painted fabric

DIY clutch tutorial

hand printed fabric

Join the leather pieces with the main fabric, by facing them to each other and sew them together on a long side leaving about 1cm from the edge for a seam.

DIY  clutch tutorial

It’s a time to attach zipper. This took me a while to think which technique to use. I will try to explain it here but if you are not familiar with sewing and my tutorial is unclear to you check this video on zipper tutorial here from Pandemic Apparel (use exposed zipper technique).

Lay the zipper face up, place the fabric face down on top of the zipper,  face to face edge to edge and sew it as close to the actual zippers teeth as your sewing machines foot allows. You don’t need to use a zipper foot for this. Do same the step with the other side of the zipper and the other piece of fabric, It should look like this.

DIY clutch tutorial

DIY clutch tutorial

Attach lining by placing it on top of wrong side of the zipper equalling it along the long edge and sew it slightly closer to the edge than the sewn fabric. As you can see on the picture first goes the lining then on top it is the zipper with fabric that have been attached to it  earlier . Do symmetrically with other piece of lining.

DIY clutch tutorial

DIY clutch tutorial

DIY hand bag tutorial

Open flat each completed piece with the zipper being in the middle, you must have two pieces like on the picture below.

Place them symmetrically on top of each other equalling each seam, leave zipper inside half-open ( to help in turning inside out).

Join those two pieces by stitching around their perimeter leaving bottom edge of a lining open you will need this for turning clutch inside out. Round up corners while sewing if need it. My zipper was too long so I had to leave some unstitched space around the end of zipper. I suggest to you keep it simple and have the right size zipper :)

DIY hand bag tutorial

Turn it inside out.

DIY hand bag tutorial

Lift lining half way up along the clutch, and sew by hand with a loose stitch lining to clutch, seam to seam. This step will secure lining to stay in place inside of your clutch.

DIY hand bag tutorial

Straighten lining down; it should end up a bit longer than the actual clutch length.

DIY hand bag tutorial

Fold extra fabric inside of lining matching the length of the clutch.

DIY clutch tutorial

Sew it few millimetres away from edge. Hide or cut threads.

DIY hand bag tutorial

Turn it outside out.

DIY hand bag tutorial

Fill your newly made bag with goodies and you are ready for the day!

clutch tutorial



DIY BLOGGISTAS! | Chic + Pretty DIY Clutches for Your Bridesmaids + Free Template | by Danielle of DSMeeBee


{Update: scroll to bottom to find out our Make Believe’N giveaway winner!}

Happy afternoon, my love muffins!  Summer seems to have arrived slightly late, since it’s like, what – OCTOBER right now?  (WOW.  I need to put the petal to the metal on Halloween costumes for Bam.  We were thinking *bunny* but that wouldn’t require a costume…)  But you don’t hear me complaining, because it’s the perfect temperature right now for outdoor lovemaking, clothing optional.  I mean, if you were wondering what parameters I use to judge perfect weather.  It’s those.  Perfect weather is all about the choice to wear whatevs you want to wear.  And I could walk outside in longs and longs, or in my [STOP READING HERE IF YOU ARE MY FAMILY] French maid costume, or in my littlest itty bitties that I catalog order (if you get your underwear from brick and mortar shops, you’re gonna wanna stop LIKERIGHTNOW, because I’ve been told way too many horror stories about what happens to those skivvies, TEE RUST ME, bubelahs).  But aaaaaanyway… as I was saying, sunshine is like nutella to me.  A warm, non-delicious but mindblowingly good mood delivering substance I like to consume, and I loves its.  I’m sure you agree…?  So here’s what I’m going to do; I’m going to play pretend and act as though this breezy, sunny brilliance is just typical nyc for this time of year.  Will you join me in my psychosis?  Yes?  Alrighty!!  … For those who said no, why’d you say no?  That’s weird.  I’m going to assume you’re the same person who leave comments about immigration under puppy videos on YouTube.  Please, be gone from here.

Omigosh so I just spent 10 minutes perusing puppy videos on YouTube because I wrote that and now I’m in brain heaven.  Puppies are effing phenomenal.  This has nothing to do with this post what the heck.  Back on track.

Today I’m so excited to introduce to you a brand new DIY Bloggista here at TKB.  Wheeee!  Her name is Danielle, and she has her own lovely and creative blog called DSMeeBee where she shares all of the super creative projects she gets into when she’s not BEING AN ARCHITECT.  Like WHOA.  I am very George Costanza when it comes to my fascination with and adulation for architects.  They’re like magic fairies who have discovered the secret of human flight.  Me, I tend to be excessively impressed by things I do not have an understanding of myself, so that’s why that’s happening.  Here’s a little more from Danielle on why she does what she does… “I also have a background in sculpture and graphic design.  So I guess that is where my love of DIY comes from. I have been married for 10 months but have my “big wedding” planned for next June. So that is why I started a Wedding DIY blog!” 

SO!  I really think you guys are gonna dig her as much as I do, and I hope you’ll welcome her with loving outstretched arms as she shares the first DIY she created for you Knottistas!  (I wanna call you guys that.  Not sure.  Trying it out.  Rolls off the tongue nicely… we’ll see.)  Take it away, Danielle…

Hi, everyone!

Every brides wants the perfect way to say thank you to her bridesmaids. A bridesmaid’s job can be expensive and time consuming…..of course it is a friends pleasure to do so. But she should definitely receive a thoughtful thank you for her efforts. This tutorial is a great way to say a big and personal thank you to your bridesmaids, mother of the bride, and mother of the groom. Making an extra clutch for the bride to match the bridal party it will be super cute!


Things you will need:

  • DSMeeBee Rose Petal Template
  • Felt – $2 a Yard
  • Pearl Button – $1 for 4
  • 4” Wide Lace Trim – $0.40 a Yard
  • Satin Fabric – $5 a Yard
    • Need less than a ¼ yard for this project.

Things from around the house:

  • Scissors
  • Sewing Pins
  • Ruler
  • Needle and Thread


  • Sizzix Big Shot
  • Sizzix Flower Petal Die Cutter
  • Sewing Machine
  • Brother SE400 Embroidery Sewing Machine

Step 1: Optional

I used my Brother SE400 Embroidery Sewing Machine to embroider a heart with the words “thank you” for inside your clutch. The heart is a cute way of saying thank you to your bridesmaids, mother of the bride, and mother of the groom. If you don’t have an embroidery machine you can always use iron on letters and iron them onto the heart.

Step 2:

Cut out a 8 ½” x 11” sheet of felt and wrap the lace trim around one end of the felt. My lace trim was a little over 4” wide and was perfect for the dimensions of this clutch. After you completely wrap the lace around the felt, fold the lace edge under itself and pin it down so there are no loose edges. Sew all the edges of the lace down with a sewing machine or with a needle and thread.

Step 3:

Where you just sewed the lace down and have the seam of the lace is where you should now fold the lace and felt assembly down on itself to create a 3” pocket and pin it down. On the other side of the felt layout the lace trim with the scalloped edge hanging over the felt edge. But this time only pin the lace on one side and let the rest of the lace hang over one edge. Take your satin heart and pin it down on the lace. This will be the inside face of the clutch. Using a sewing machine or needle and thread to sew the edges of the pocket and sew down the lace and the heart. Once everything is sewn down take the excess lace and wrap it in the front of the clutch. Now pin it down and again fold the edge of the lace on itself to create a nice seam. Sew all of the loose edges of the lace down with a sewing machine or with a needle and thread.

At that this point you have a beautiful lace clutch but if you want to do add a little something extra follow the next steps.

Step 4:

I used my Sizzix Big Shot to die cut felt and lace petals to cover the front of my clutch. You don’t need to have a die cutter to cut the petals but it is obviously much faster to use one. The alternative is to use the DSMeeBee Rose Petal Template to cut out the petals out with scissors. Cut about 30 large felt petals, 15 large lace petals, 6 small felt petals, and 6 small lace petals. After you have cut your petals out set them aside.

Step 5:

Cut a 7”x3 ½” strip of felt for the front of the clutch and layout the petals as you want them to be. I used layers of 4 petals alternating felt and felt with lace petals to create layered flower effect. After laying out each layer of petals I then sewed down that row and then mirrored it on the other side. At the end using a needle and thread sew down the small petals to create a small flower in the middle. In the center of that small flower sew down a button.

Step 6:

Using a sewing machine or needle and thread attach the strip of felt with the petals sewed down onto it and sew that down on the front of the clutch.

What you need:


  • 1 Perspex Box – make sure it has a hinge (this can be purchased in most haberdashery or jewellery shops on Sham Shui Po’s Yu Chau Street. I bought mine from “Accessory Republic” on the corner of Yu Chau & Pei Ho Street)
  • 1 Can White Spray Paint
  • Scotch tape
  • 1 Tube clear contact adhesive
  • 1 Small Sheet of Leather (I used some fake leather that I had lying around the house. I’m sure I found it in Sham Shui Po; there are many stalls and shops along Ki Lung Street (around number 193) that sell leather, both real and fake)
  • A mix of different shaped & coloured crystals (“Kiwi”, a few shops down from “Accessory Republic” on Yu Chau Street, is a treasure trove of embellishments – everything from sparkles to mini plastic sweets… I even made a ‘candy crown’ for a party once!)

How to:

1.  Cut out the shape of the embellishment from the leather sheet. In this instance, I’ve drawn out an estimated shape of a bat-eagle hybrid!

2.  Using the scotch tape, cover the outside of the Perspex box and the edges. Keep the inside uncovered.

3.  Lay the open Perspex box on a sheet of newspaper and spray evenly with the white spray paint. Leave to dry and then spray with another coat. Remember: whenever you use spray paint, be sure to spray in a well-ventilated area.

4.  Whilst the paint dries, use the contact adhesive to stick the crystals onto the leather.

5.  Once the paint has dried, peel the scotch tape off the outside of the box.

6.  Using the contact adhesive, stick the leather and crystal-embellished shape onto the top of the box. Leave to dry.



I’ve been finding excuses to use this clutch almost everyday since I made it! I just love it so much and it’s so easy to match with anything because of the neutrality of the white colour.

Supplies you’ll need:
1/2 yard exterior fabric*
1/4 yard interior fabric (I recommend a quilting cotton)
9″ zipper that matches your exterior fabric
1/4 yard #808 Pellon Craft Fuse interfacing
Sewing thread that matches your exterior fabric
Sewing machine
Iron & ironing board
*I recommend a medium to heavier weight cotton for this. Linen is what I’m using, and it works perfectly.  You don’t want to use a quilting weight cotton or something really light – it will make the final product too flimsy.

1. Start by cutting your exterior pieces. I use a quilting cutting mat which makes things as accurate as possible.


2. Now cut interior fabric pieces.

3. Cut interfacing.

4. Bring your strap piece to the ironing board.


Sometimes, at the end of this step, if my strap doesn’t feel sturdy enough, I’ll cut a thin strip of interfacing and tuck it inside the crease before sewing. This is an optional step.

5. Now it’s time to sew your strap.

6. Set the strap aside and let’s work on the “knot” of your bow.

7. Once you’ve gotten the “knot,” let’s work on the other part of your bow.

8. Set your bow aside for now, and grab your interior and exterior fabric pieces and your pieces of interfacing.

9. Now it’s time to attach your bow.

10. Set those pieces aside and let’s work on installing your zipper.

11. Attach the exterior fabrics to the other side of your zipper.

12. You’re on the home stretch! Let’s add the strap and finish the bag!