Update: I had listed the fabric amounts incorrectly when I posted this – I had said you needed a fat quarter each for the outside and the inside fabrics. You will need 1/3 yard of each. So sorry about the error!!**

• 1/3 yard for outside fabric
• 1/3 yard for inside lining
(I used Joel Dewberry, Heirloom by Free Spirit, Ornate Floral in Amber & Tile Flourish in Amber)
• 1/4 yard of fusible heavyweight Pellon interfacing (Peltex 71F – Ultra Firm Stabilizer)
• 1/2 yard of fusible interfacing (950F – fusible nonwoven interfacing)
• 1 magnetic snap closure
• 1 vintage beaded item (mine was a clip earring with the closure cut off)

Begin by cutting out your outside pieces. You’ll need 2 pieces 11″ x 7″, 1 piece 11″ x 8″ and one piece 3″ x 25″.
When you cut out the pieces, pay attention to the placement of the 11″ x 8″ piece that will be the front flap. Center the piece on a section of fabric that has a feature you want to highlight, like a large flower, bird, whatever.
Make sure that there is another section of the fabric with this same design that will be left after you cut out the other pieces.

Cut out the section of the fabric that you want to use for the fabric applique on the front flap. It should match the design on the front rectangle piece.

Lay the applique piece over the fabric rectangle so that it covers the piece below it.
Sew the applique on, about 1/4″ inside the edge, following the lines of your design.

This will give you a subtle applique look with frayed edges.

Cut out your Ultra Firm Stabilizer – 2 pieces 10″ x 6″ and 1 piece 10″ x 7″. Cut out fusible interfacing for the two long, thin rectangles and all lining pieces.
Iron your interfacings onto the outside fabric pieces.

Sew the long rectangle piece to one of the 11″ x 7″ rectangle pieces along the two short sides and the bottom. Use a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Clip the corners up to the seam but not through it so they will lay nicely.

Sew the other 11″ x 7″ rectangle to the other side of the 3″ piece.

Turn the rectangle right side out and press.
Mark the placement of the large side of the magnetic snap. You should have a snap piece and a metal piece with three holes. Use the metal piece as your guide.
Place the piece in the center of the front rectangle, 1 1/2″ up from the bottom seam. Draw marking lines inside the holes.

Cut small slits in the fabric and interfacing where you have marked it. (A sharp exacto knife works great for this.)
Place the two prongs of the snap through the slits. On the back side (the interfacing side) slip the metal piece over the prongs and fold them to the outside.
Here’s what it looks like on the inside.

Now cut out your lining pieces. You’ll need 2 pieces 11″ x 7″, 1 piece 11″ x 8″ and one piece 3″ x 25″.
You will also need a piece of your outside fabric 9″ x  8″ for the pocket.
Iron your fusible interfacing pieces to all the lining pieces.

Fold your pocket piece in half, right sides together, to make a 4 1/2″ x 8″ rectangle. Sew the three open sides together, leaving a small opening at the bottom for turning.
Clip the corners.

Turn right side out and press.
Center the pocket on one of the 11″ x 7″ lining pieces, 1 1/2″ from the top edge.
Sew the pocket to the lining piece on the two short sides and the bottom, right next to the edge. Sew a seam down the pocket to divide it.
Mine is 2 1/2″ from the left side.

Sew your lining pieces to the 3″ x 25″ piece like you did with the outside pieces – but leave a section on the bottom open for turning.

Place the outside section inside the lining pieces, matching up the top edges and seams. Make sure that the pocket lining piece is matched up with the back piece of the bag, not the piece with the snap.
Sew around the top edge with a 1/2″ seam.

Turn the bag right side out. Press all those wrinkles out.
Sew up the opening in the lining by hand and tuck the lining into the outside of the bag.

Top stitch around the top edge of the bag, 1/4″ from the edge. This might be tricky since the interfacing is so stiff. But you’re tough. You can handle it.

Now we’re going to add the other side of the snap to the front flap lining piece. Mark the placement for the snap piece, in the center of the lining piece, 1 1/2″ up from the bottom of the piece.
On the back of the lining piece, iron a small square of the heavy-duty stabilizer. This will reinforce the snap so it doesn’t pull out over time.

Add the snap to the lining piece by marking, then cutting slits like you did for the other piece.

Place the two front flap pieces, right sides together. Sew the two side seams and the bottom seam with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Clip the bottom corners.

Turn the piece right side out and press. Clip a little out of the seams at the top open section. Tuck the open ends in and press them down.

Pin the flap to the back side of the clutch, so that the wrong side of the front flap is facing the right side of the back of the clutch. The front flap should overlap the back piece by 1″.
Sew the front flap piece to the back of the clutch, 1/4″ from the folded edge of the front flap.
(Again, this will be a little unwieldy. A heavy duty needle will help.)

Pinch together the top of the clutch, with middle section folded to the inside, like the picture below.
Tack this tucked section in place by hand with a few stitches through the fold.

Now if all is right with the world, your front flap should fold over and snap closed!

If you want, add a little fun decorative piece at the bottom of the front flap. You could use a button, pin, anything really that matches your style and fabric. This will look like the outside of the snap, but it’s just for decoration.
I used one of my Grandma’s clip on earrings. I cut off the clip portion with wire cutters and glued it to the front of the flap, over the snap.

And that finishes it up!!
Such a cute clutch – with plenty of room for your wallet, phone, and keys – and we even have a pocket for lip gloss!

I just love the fabric of the clutch!! So perfect for brightening up an outfit.
Even if your shirt is all wrinkled. Oh. That’s just me.